Military Submariner ‘MilSub’ 5517
The Rolex Military Submariner “MilSub” Ref. 5517 is one of the most iconic and collectible Rolex tool watches ever produced, purpose-built for the British Royal Navy during the 1970s. Unlike civilian Submariners, the 5517 was modified to meet strict military specifications, featuring fixed bars for NATO straps, a fully graduated 60-minute bezel, and sword-shaped hands for enhanced legibility underwater. The dial typically includes the distinctive circled “T” indicating tritium lume and military issue engravings on the caseback, such as service numbers and issuance codes (e.g., “W10” or “0552”).
Produced in extremely limited quantities and never sold to the public, most were issued to Special Forces divers, and many were heavily used or lost during service, making surviving examples incredibly rare. The reference is highly sought after for its authenticity, rugged design, and historical significance. Its combination of naval provenance, unique military features, and Rolex’s professional tool watch pedigree makes the 5517 one of the most coveted Submariners in the vintage market, often commanding seven-figure prices at auction. In essence, the MilSub 5517 represents the pinnacle of functional military watchmaking combined with Rolex’s legendary reliability.
Custom Build Military Submariner ‘MilSub’ 5517
I am an experienced custom watch builder and can expertly assemble these timepieces for you to the highest standards. Each watch will be carefully built and I will personally regulate the movement to ensure optimal timekeeping accuracy. Additionally, I will perform waterproofing measures to enhance durability and reliability, giving you a well-crafted watch that not only looks exceptional but also performs flawlessly in daily wear. Below are some examples of my previous work, each showcasing the craftsmanship, finishing, and attention to detail that goes into every MilSub 5517 build I create.
Before I assembled this MilSub 5517, I had custom-aged the bezel insert, dial, and hands to give it a realistic vintage look. It also has a customized 5517 caseback and is paired with a grey nato strap, just like genuine. I have chosen the NH38 for its robustness, and its beat rate is similar to the genuine movement. Before sending out, I have regulated the movement to optimise the performance and waterproofed the watch, which is ideal for real-life applications under different situations.
- Raffles Case 40mm
- Raffles Crown
- Raffles 5517 Caseback
- Custom Aged Raffles Bezel Insert
- Custom Aged Raffles Dial
- Custom Aged Raffles Hour, Minute, Second Hands
- Grey Nato Strap
- Self-Regulated NH38 (Beats at 21,600, Similar to Genuine)
- Self-Waterproofed at 3ATM (Splash Proof)





